Nestled right in the heart of the city, the market of Port Louis is a place where one'll meet all kinds of people and where an array of products is displayed.

A kaleidoscope that sometimes harmonizes with the most incongruous factors.

A well dressed officer wearing a tie is being served the bean sprouts. A few European tourists stroll with, in addition to their usual packs, a bag of small cherry tomatoes. They bite into the fruits and comment on the taste. Young Chinese, employees of the Freeport factories are doing their shopping among the dwellers in the vicinity. A few Asians sailors are wandering...

Occasionally, a crowd is jostled by the dark-skinned carriers with worn-out clothes, loaded with vegetables baskets on their heads. A usual scenery in the noisy and cheerful fruits and vegetables sellers' section in the market of Port Louis.

In a nook of the hall, an air-conditioned zone is reserved for the snacks and sweet breads and buns and where the sellers of tamarind juice and "alouda" - local milk shake - steal the show, in nabbing the passers-by with theatrical gestures and calls.

Is it a coincidence that this banana seller also sells lime? Thus, his space shines with a bright yellow monochrome colour. A few stalls further down, a tomato seller seems engulf among the red pyramids, formed by the fruits arranged on several circular layers.

The green and constantly moistened vegetables soften the browned dusty and austere range of potatoes, taros or yet, the onions, laid like reviewed troops. One can also find leaves, stems and barks using to prepare infusion, boasted to soothe, and even heal improbable illnesses.

Here, the prices are well indicated, as opposed to what is being done upstairs and in the neighbouring wings where souvenirs and clothes are available.

The stalls of the bibelots and the souvenirs are much calmer. However, it is also attractive with batiks, t-shirts with dodos, flowery beachwear, colourful pareo, lovely tablecloth with hand embroidery or yet the welcoming flowery necklaces. The tentacles of the dried octopus are hung besides the striking raffia baskets and the effluvia of the cod bringing out the flavour of the bewitching array of spices.

This section of the market is more popular with the tourists. And the sellers seem more considerate. "I'll let you have this product at a reduced price." That's what the other seller will also tell you. They seem gentle but they are particularly tenacious, ready to sell even if it was just a bracelet or a shells' necklace.

They welcome the visitors to have a look and to bargain. Since, we cannot really determine the exact value of a product, we need to trust our instinct. The satisfaction of buying is the proof of a good deal.

However, the same articles are generally cheaper in the market of Port Louis than in the other spots, notably in highly tourist ones such as Grand Bay (in the north) or Flic en Flac (west).

Text: William Rasoanaivo
photos: Laurène Mazier and William Rasoanaivo
2007