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The wreck of the Saint-Géran
Every day the small village of Poudre d'Or saw about ten or so of divers passed by. Far away in this area, where time seems to stop, lies one of the most famous wreckages of the island: the Saint-Géran. Beginners or experienced, everyone want to touch this favoured relics of this rich history of the island.
Over 250 years after its wreck, the Saint-Géran still fascinates us. Like being beyond time, the village of Poudre d'Or in the north west of the island and half an hour drive from the capital, lived in the souvenir of this shipwreck to which it owes its dreary fame.
All the inhabitants know about the history of this ship. And they are eager to relate it to anyone who wishes to hear about it over a refreshing drink at the corner shop.
Built in Lorient in 1737, the Saint-Géran was among the fleet of the East India Company. It was wrecked in 1744 along the stretch of coral located opposite the village, near Ile Ambre.
At the time of the disaster, there were 149 sailors, 13 passengers and 30 slaves aboard. Today, one can still admire a few of the 28 canons of the ship. The rigid sentinels vainly protect a few mysterious treasures.
The archeological campaigns carried out, have helped to recover a few silver cutleries, Spanish silver piaster, millstones as well as many rigging wooden objects, the hull of the ship and so on. These historic treasures can be admired at the museums in Port Louis and Mahébourg.
Experienced and beginners divers
Many diving centers propose one to discover this wreck which keeps on arousing the curiosity of the divers from around the world for an afternoon.
They are about ten or so to come admiring the Saint Géran along with the numerous forms of life that took refuge. Because apart from the wreckage, the site is also known for its exceptional fauna and flora.
Protected, the site is accessible as much to the experienced divers as to the beginners. You only need ten minutes by boat to reach where the Saint Géran has foundered 264 years ago.
When the weather is nice, the turquoise water reveals a somber mass of the old lady which appears twenty meters deep.
One can only gasp in front of this awesome stature of this ship which has been the privileged witness of a page of the ancient history of Ile de France. The perfect visibility makes the visit of the well preserved wreckage easy.
Back on the beach, the visit inevitably ends with a stroll across the village. The inhabitants, kind and friendly, can be easily addressed. Once in the centre of the village, our gaze is immediately attracted by a sign which lead us towards a monument dedicated to the victims of the wreck. It is found along a dead end road which overlooks a charming little church.
On the commemorative plate, it is stated: "in the open sea, on the night of 17 to 18 August 1744, the Saint Géran perishes whereof the wreckage has been eternalised by the novel of Bernadin de Saint Pierre, Paul et Virginie.
This monument was built on the 20th August 1944 by the "Société d'Histoire" in Mauritius. Words which inevitably revive the image of this wreckage have known over the centuries how to preserve a part of its mystery.
Photos : Courtoisie de Ian Von Arnim
January 2008
