Pakistan Hotel is the last stopover for night revellers. It is the only place in the capital where one can get something to eat or drink in the early hours of the morning. Friends meet up here to chat whilst sipping down a hot cup of tea.

It is 9pm. The shops of Port Louis have already been closed for a while. The roads are practically empty. The capital is slowly sinking into a deep slumber. However, the northern end of one thoroughfare, the rue Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam (formerly known as the rue Desforges) remains busy. Pakistan Hotel is situated at the top of this street.

The motorbikes and cars parked in front are proof of the crowd that is inside. A smell of barbecued and deep-fried food fills the air. A small group of people gathers in front of a gate, at the shop entrance. At this time of night, good kebabs, grilled chicken, roasted meats and chilli fritters are greatly appreciated, as no other ‘snack’ is open for a good few kilometres.

Inside, the atmosphere is even livelier. A well-hidden loudspeaker bellows out an Arabic monologue. However, the clients surrounding the bar make even more noise. A lot of them are wearing hats and white ‘kurtas’ – a long shirt worn by men at prayer time – especially during this month of Ramadan. Incense, burning in a fireplace, lets out its delicate smell and a thick cloud of smoke. Pakistan Hotel is misting over. Business is heating up.

Dishes filled with fritters (including the ‘chilli cake’), fried chicken (known as ‘tikka), a block of butter and pieces of cheese are laid out on the counter. The butter, cheese and ‘tikka’ sandwich is very popular.

Some people have come to do a bit of shopping and purchase fizzy drinks, mineral water, fine wheaten bread, tortillas, bread, sweets or cigarettes...The establishment is not only a grocery store, but also a tearoom.

A couple of groups head towards the back of the premises and sit themselves down around small metal tables. Conversations heat up, whilst enjoying the hot tea and milk that flows freely. More refined dishes are waiting to be served.